How to ... formulate natural, yet sensorial anhydrous balms with Compritol® 888 CG? Is there a specific process of formulation?
There are two important steps:
STEP 1:
it is essential to ensure that the Compritol® 888 CG is perfectly melted in the oil phase. For this, ensure that the mixture is heated to 80-85°C during at least 5-10 minutes. Oils that are sensitive to heat can be added later below 75°C. Use a stirrer or mixer to ensure good dispersion. Once fully melted, the Compritol® pellets or powder should no longer be visible in the melted oil phase; the oil phase should be transparent or translucent.
STEP 2:
Begin cooling. During this step, it is necessary to maintain a high shear (rotor stator) from the time when the formula becomes hazy (start of crystallization) or starts to thicken. Mix using rotor-stator at 2500 rpm until cooling is complete.
How to... avoid agglomerates and crystals in anhydrous balms with Compritol® 888 CG, depending on the batch size?
A blend of Compritol® 888 CG / Geleol Hydrogenated Castor Oil in a ratio of a 2/2/1 is recommended between 1à and 15% depending on the consistency desired and the oil types. This should ensure homogeneous recrystallization of the Compritol® 888 CG.
The small particles may also result from insufficient melting of Compritol® 888 CG. Make sure that it is fully melted before cooling.
More about... Hydracire® S
This new active texturizing ingredient allows the formulation of anhydrous balms with 15 % of water.
Click here to download the formulation